Through the guts

Great Central Highway

Laverton to Alice springs

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I left Laverton mainly to get away from the rain and the cold.

I had shifted camp several times to keep the firewood supply up without carting; not hard to do, certainly easier than dragging firewood from ever increasing distances away from camp. My mobility had not improved very much after my back injury. All those months of being crippled caused me to loose muscle-tone and old knee injuries reappeared. It's also fairly hilly country around Euro and dragging firewood at the end of a day was not on.

 

Other prospectors came and went while I was there. I made the acquaintance of most of them, but I seemed to be the only prospector camping in a tent, the others were mostly in caravans or camper trailers and stayed closer together.

 

It would be a good idea for those who camp around town or community areas to be aware of local shooters. These are often aboriginal hunters and others taking fresh meat. If they know you are camping in the area they will avoid you. Going to bed and leaving your camp in darkness could be dangerous. I suggest you get a little, kero-lamp and hang it high enough to be seen. I know prospectors who use three such lamps to guard against accidental rifle-fire at night; even a small light can be seen for a fair distance.

I had never heard a shotgun from the pointy end until Laverton. It sounded like a stick of gelly going off. Fortunately I had my spotlight handy and the hunters quickly left the area.

 

I packed-up and hit the track at the end of July.

My intent was to use the Great Central Highway to get to Alice and then go for the Pacific. Looking at the map, I would cross three States before arriving in Townsville. The though of warm weather, lush tropical vegetation and clear Pacific waters full of fresh fish was very seductive.

The first part of the road out of Laverton is very good. You can pick the highway up coming directly from Leonora, bypassing the need to go into Laverton, but why would you? It's the last decent town Nth-East until you hit Alice Springs.

 

I soon noticed the dead cars along the way. Many simply abandoned on the road itself for any number of reasons. Unfortunately, most were burnt-out which destroyed their potential use for spare parts. The bush either side of the road is littered with these now useless shells. I can't help but wonder, why people need to behave like that.

 

I stopped for another look at a sign that caught my eye while passing a small junction. When I drove back it was the 'Connie Sue' turn-off to the south. Now, this is one of Len Beadle's tracks, named after his daughter. It goes down towards the Trans-Line.

I took a picture and noted the Desert Peas were flowering perhaps because of the recent rain. The track heads off into grassland and looks like the usual run of Station track. I have no idea how it is, but I believe a few people use it regularly. I had a quick look around and was soon on the way again.

 

 

Occasionally the main road becomes very rocky. There is no choice really, but to put the foot down and get on top of the corrugations. I would pity anyone towing a caravan or trailer across the rough sections. I allowed the few vehicles coming from behind me to overtake by pulling to a stop as far off the road as possible whenever I saw them. Apart from these rough sections, the smoother sand and light gravel zones are good. They give you a bit of relief from the hammering which really tests your shock absorbers, steering and suspension.

Before you take this trip on, make sure you have checked underneath and your universal joints too. The harmonics that are generated by the corrugations can unscrew a loose nut as easily as if it was done with a spanner.

 

There had been considerable rain when I left Laverton. Not massive downpours, but constant drizzle for a number of days. Along the sides of the road out here, the bush looked fairly dry, but I fretted about being stuck for a period in a forced camp if the weather should break for the worse. As a consequence, I didn't muck about doing any tourist activities or excursions off the main track. My understanding was that permits were required for any such meandering and I was intent on transit only. I put in all the time I could behind the wheel and only stopped for the usual scratch and a look around as needed.

Warburton arrived and vanished with only a glance in their general direction. The same for the Giles weather station. I noted the turn-offs and kept moving.

The one place that was a mandatory stop, was the giant termite mound beside the road. I seem to recall a picture from the early 1950's taken during a pioneering car journey . . . I'm almost certain it was the same nest.

The nests appear to be located on flood plains. For many kilometres along both sides of the sandy road, these nests are visible as far as the eye can penetrate the scrub. Some look like mud-red budda's sitting in contemplation, looking across the vast plain. Certainly worthy of a break to take a picture or put the billy on the stove.

 

 

I stopped to fuel-up with diesel from my Jerry can supply just a few K's beyond the Giles turnoff. It took half an hour because I needed to partially unload to get at everything. That's the one real drawback with a fibreglass canopy on a Ute. There's only a back access; even if I had those fancy fold-out windows along the side, you can't drag full 35lt Jerry-cans of fuel through side windows. As soon as I was fuelled-up I moved the next cans to a handy position and reloaded. I hoped I would make it through to the Stuart Highway without needing to stop for fuel again.

 

The country changes again after Giles. You start to see mountains in the distance and the numbers of camels increase. I saw some big mobs in the distance and several smaller groups beside the road.

 

Once you cross the Northern Territory border and are heading towards Docker River the creeks are bigger and the trees look more substantial. I took a picture of a Ghost Gum beside the road and saw other trees I couldn't identify at all. It's a very pretty country and I would have loved to stop and go for a wander around some of the hills for a close look see, but I wouldn't be able to on this trip so, I went on.

 

 

I stopped at Docker River for a few items from the supermarket. I didn't need much so it was an in and out kind of deal. Certainly a couple of iced milk drinks hit the spot. Far better than the 20-days out of date Big-M's it was my misfortune to buy at a remote roadside stop in WA. I pressed on.

 

The road from here on was pretty rough. It must get a fair amount of local traffic too and from Alice Springs as the main regional centre. I daresay a fair amount of Adelaide traffic too, coming to Docker River and other communities. Once again I found myself pushing things a bit or facing the problem of occasionally being overtaken by other vehicles and risking a smashed windscreen. Most of those who did pass me were savvy in the etiquette of bush driving and passed steadily, staying far over to the right until they were 200 metres or more ahead before coming back onto the correct side of the road. I couldn't find fault in their driving at all.

There were several hours of this until, late in the afternoon, I hit the T-junction at the Olga's. I took a quick snapshot with my trusty point and shoot camera and I turned right to continue towards the Stuart Highway which was my target for the day . . . not looking good at this stage.

 

By the time I had passed 'The Rock', it was nearly dark. I had joined a convoy of tourists and visitors heading back towards the resort complex. After that I kept going until I hit Mt Ebenezer where I put $50 of diesel into the main tank and found a free camping area behind the pub. I think its becoming pretty rare to encounter free campsites and a hot shower all for the price of a few well-earned beers. I am grateful for those who continue to provide for the transit traveller. Good on you, yer bloods worth bottling.

 

After a few coldies I retired to study the map; something I had little time to do while on the road. It was a bit of a shock to discover that considerable travel was required before I hit Alice . . . It's a long way from anywhere between 'towns' in the NT.

I rolled-out the swag and slept like a log until 6:AM the following morning.

 

Nothing was open when I packed-up, so I headed off towards The Stuart. It was not far to go and I was still early when I arrived at the Erldunda Roadhouse. I parked and went in to order some breakfast.

There was hardly anyone around, but I thought I would be brave and order a plain hamburger. Now this took some courage, I have to tell you. I had done the deed a couple of times during the trip . . . and the less said about those experiences the better. The lass behind the counter said "Sure! Fine! I'll bring it out!"

I sat out side and gnawed my choc-milk straw in anxiety . . . more of the same I bet! Sucker, you'll never learn ya dope. Really positive thoughts to start the day.

 

"Here ya go!" And a foam tub was placed on a tissue beside me. Thanks!

Well, I have to tell you . . . it was a great Hamburger, a brilliant Hamburger It was a toasted bun, lightly buttered. A nicely cooked pattie with some shredded lettuce, tomato and tomato sauce . . .. fresh as a daisy and a pure delight.

 

So I'm hoeing into this manna from heaven and a little yellow and grey bird lands on the table across from me. I mouth 'howho wittle yelloth bwhird', spraying it with breadcrumbs and bits of lettuce. It 's kinda got that nervous jerkiness that little yellow birds have . . . but it ducked the flying debris and hopped closer. It was only about 12 inches from my nose.

I stopped chewing and pinched a bit of bun and flicked it across the table towards it before resuming my meal.

That bird barely looked at the crumbs and then hopped closer. I looked at it a bit more carefully . . . I could almost hear it thinking "Hey you! Don't give me that crumbs crap . . . just put that burger down and back away . . . slowly . . .now!"

I used to be faster in my youth . . . catching bugs in mid flight and that sort of stuff. That bird just jumped into the air, flicked its wings a couple of times and landed on the trellis overhead. I watched it. It watched me. Then it crapped on the table and flew away. Great burger and I wasn't about to share it with anyone.

 

I made Alice Springs with considerable relief. No mechanical issues, reasonable fuel economy considering I was pushing faster than I would normally like to go. I am glad I did the wheel bearings and shockers before the trip. I did some shopping as soon as I arrived, washing at the coin laundry and found a camp for the next two weeks not far out of town.

 

NOTES: I left Laverton Thursday 1:PM. An over night camp in the bush off the road at dusk. Just over halfway to Warburton.

Left the camp at 4 AM Friday. Drove all day apart from a few stops and a quick shop call at Docker River, arrived at Mt Ebenezer around 7:30 PM.

Left Erldunda roadhouse about 10:AM Saturday and arrived in Alice around 1:PM.

Two good over night camps during the trip so I was fairly rested at the start of each day.

 

Additional information and maps here: http://www.mynrma.com.au/travel/go/outback_tracks/thegu.shtml

 

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